![]() And actually, if you add extra peaches and a bit of white wine and lemon juice, you can skip the cream altogether. I kept the cream and butter and a wily cook can still make the substitutions. And for the herbal scent, I used more strips, of fresh basil this time. I changed up the pancetta for prosciutto, cutting into strips instead of a dice. I switched out the cantaloupe for peaches, which are much more precious and short-lived in northern climates than melon. Reading the chef’s recipe, then cooking and tasting, I was inspired to try a variation on the theme. The pancetta is a mere 2 ounces for four people, so just enough to add some salty counterpoint. An inventive home cook can play with the ingredients, subtracting a tablespoon of butter and using fat-free half-and-half in place of the cream, one of my favorite new tricks. In spite of the cream and butter, this one is also just too luscious to pass up. This sounds crazy, right? Well, you just have to trust me on this one…” And although the combination of ingredients seems unorthodox, they are worth tasting together. And both are lulled into delicious union with herbs and cream. The melon plays sweetly against the salty pancetta. For instance, Emeril’s recipe for cantaloupe and pancetta pasta sauce. Sometimes a cookbook recipe jumps out as a unique way of combining products. But unlike so many of the ecologically correct offerings on the market, this one can shake up taste buds. Emeril Lagasse’s newest book is based on bringing farm-fresh products to the table. Sometimes a movement inspires a cookbook, often many.
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